Meet Two Local Chefs Who Earned Nods From the Prestigious Michelin Guide: Part 1
Written by Jan Norris
Photos by Elizabeth Palace
Now that the prestigious Michelin Guide has recognized Palm Beach County restaurants, the North County can boast two of the guide’s 10 notables.
Tim Lipman of Coolinary, in theDonald Ross Village plaza, opened his daily-menu, farm-to-table conceptmore than a decade ago with his spouse, Jennifer.
It won a “Recommended” mention in Michellin, indicating a restaurant worthy of a trip, even if it didn’t meet the parameters for a star in their rating system.
“All these years of hard work paid off,” Lipman said. “We were trying to do something new here. So this feels good to be recognized for it.” Jupiter dining was taking a new path when he decided on a restaurant of his own, and he was at a forefront.
“When we started out 13 years ago, Jen and I did it all ourselves, out of our own pockets.” It took mettle to open a new concept back then, he said, and investors were wary.
“We ended up funding the whole thing.”
For the first few years, he said, “We worked open to close, every day we were open,” he said.
Gradually, the community embraced his daily farm-to-table menu and boutique wine program.
“We’re clearly making people happy,” he said.
Chasing awards isn’t for him, however.
“We always try to do better every day. There’s always room to improve.
“It would be great, though I’m not sure we qualify for a Bib Gourmand. It’s great that our work was acknowledged.
I told my guys to accept the pat on the back. Have fun. They’ve worked hard right along with us.”
He’s allowed himself to take a step back these days, however, in order to enjoy family life. His son Ollie is 3½ , and Lipman said he wants to enjoy these days of discovery.
“We love our restaurant family,” he said. “Some of them have been with us from Day 1. But we have a family of our own now. Watching our son grow is the best.”
The family travels together now, too. “We don’t go anywhere without him. If Ollie’s not invited, we don’t go. I don’t want to leave him. Every moment is crucial at this stage of his life; they are moments I can’t get back. We worked so hard for him, I want to enjoy this.”
Lipman will be cooking at food and wine events in the Hamptons, Aspen and other places over the summer as the dining slows down here.
New hours for summer mean Coolinary, the 100-seat restaurant with bar, called the Parched Pig, will close at lunch. A new menu started mid-May.
“We go with brighter flavors and lighter foods. More white wines to complement the dishes,” he said.
Diners can look for foods such as a swordfish in a Romesco sauce along with corn cream, and sautéed spinach. Other ingredients are Aioli Bakery’s rye bread, smoked peppers and carrots.
“The caraway and smoked peppers and carrots give it a distinct flavor profile,” Lipman said. It’s served with a cool salad of fava beans, shaved aparagus, red onion, radish, pickled herbs and olive oil.
A wahoo ceviche, a Thai red curry, a lamb taco with harrissa and eggplant jam, and a Latin-inspired American wagyu steak also are on the new menu.
The steak is served with a fried yucca fritter and a vegetable escabeche with a charred onion crema.
Many of his ingredients are from favorite local sources he’s used since he opened.
“We still use Cod and Capers Seafood, and get vegetables and tomatoes from Diane (Cordeau) at Kai Kai Farm. We have a tomato salad from her tomatoes with tahini lime vinaigrette — really great.”
Asked about opening a second restaurant, he was quick to quash the idea. “Maybe I’ll think about it when Ollie starts school. Right now, I’m just enjoying our success with this one. We worked so hard for it. We’ve just gotten to the point we can relax a little.”
Coolinary, 4580 Donald Ross
Road, Palm Beach Gardens. Open
Monday-Saturday 4-10 p.m. (Summer hours).
Notable newcomers
Though chefs who are running their own restaurants don’t get out much, they do know others serving notable food.
Chef Tim Lipman says he rarely gets to go out to eat, and when he does, it’s for a casual meal with coworkers after a long night. He’s keen on the newish Floza Craft Pizza in the Mirasol Plaza (6271 PGA Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens; flozacraftpizza.com).
The unique wood-fired pizzas, smash burgers and sandwiches have won raves from diners. Look for a modern twist on traditional pizzas from two chefs who came from Michelin restaurants in New York City. They call theirs “Palm Beach style.” The Melazana, with a béchamel, fresh mozzarella, eggplant conserva, oreganta, and guanciale makes that cut. Lunch, Fri. and Sat.; dinner, Mon.-Sat.
